Down at the bottom of 380 dizzying steps, the walls are an imperfect gray. They look like rock — but they taste salty. How do visitors know? They’re encouraged to lick them. Just to the southeast of ...

“Enough fun,” I said to Alex, my 12-year-old son, after several days of vacationing in Krakow. We’d visited Wawel Castle on the hill, strolled Old Town and its impressive buildings, and explored the ...